Mavi Boncuk |Cover illustration: The Last Supper. The Church of Suceviţa Monastery (Courtesy of Petru Palamar).
Earthly Delights
Economies and Cultures of Food in Ottoman and Danubian Europe, c. 1500-1900
Series:
Balkan Studies Library, Volume: 23
Editors: Angela Jianu and Violeta Barbu
ISSN 1877-6272
ISBN 978-90-04-32425-1 (hardback)
ISBN 978-90-04-36754-8 (e-book)
Copyright 2018 by Koninklijke Brill NV, Leiden, The Netherlands.
Earthly Delights brings together a number of substantial and original scholarly studies by international scholars currently working on the history of food in the Ottoman Empire and East-Central Europe. It offers new empirical research, as well as surveys of the state of scholarship in this discipline, with special emphasis on influences, continuities and discontinuities in the culinary cultures of the Ottoman Porte, the Balkans and East-Central Europe between the 17th and 19th centuries. Some contributions address economic aspects of food provision, the development and trans-national circulation of individual dishes, and the role of merchants, diplomats and travellers in the transmission of culinary trends. Others examine the role of food in the construction of national and regional identities in contact zones where local traditions merged or clashed with imperial (Ottoman, Habsburg) and West-European influences.
Map
Introduction
By: Angela Jianu and Violeta Barbu
Pages: 1–30
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Flavours, Tastes and Culinary Exchange: Food and Drink in the Ottoman World
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Should it be Olives or Butter? Consuming Fatty Titbits in the Early Modern Ottoman Empire*
By: Suraiya Faroqhi
Pages: 33–49
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Simits for the Sultan, Cloves for the Mynah Birds: Records of Food Distribution in the Saray
By: Hedda Reindl-Kiel
Pages: 50–76
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The Cuisine of Istanbul between East and West during the 19th Century
By: Özge Samancı
Pages: 77–98
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By: Margareta Aslan
Pages: 99–126
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Exotic Brew? Coffee and Tea in 18th-Century Moldavia and Wallachia
By: Olivia Senciuc
Pages: 127–146
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Ingredients, Kitchens and the Pleasures of the Table
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Kitchen Gardens and Festive Meals in Transylvania (16th–17th Centuries)
By: Kinga S. Tüdős
Pages: 149–169
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Food and Culinary Practices in 17th-Century Moldavia: Tastes, Techniques, Choices
By: Maria Magdalena Székely
Pages: 170–216
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The “Emperor’s Pantry”: Food, Fasting and Feasting in Wallachia (17th–18th Centuries)
By: Violeta Barbu
Pages: 217–267
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Food and Cities: Supply, Mobility, Trade
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Food Supply and Distribution in Early Modern Transylvania (1541–1640): The Case of Cluj
By: Enikő Rüsz-Fogarasi
Pages: 271–294
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Spices and Exotic Foods in 17th-Century Transylvania: The Customs Accounts of Sibiu*
By: Mária Pakucs-Willcocks
Pages: 295–310
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The Food Trade in 18th-Century Wallachia between Daily Subsistence and Luxury
By: Gheorghe Lazăr
Pages: 311–338
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Cooking between Tradition and Innovation: Food Recipes Old and New
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Two South-East European Manuscript Recipe Collections in their 17th-Century Historical Context
By: Castilia Manea-Grgin
Pages: 341–375
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From Istanbul to Sarajevo via Belgrade—A Bulgarian Cookbook of 1874
By: Stefan Detchev
Pages: 376–401
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Representations, Travellers’ Tales, Myths
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“It is in Truth an Island”: Impressions of Food and Hospitality in 19th-Century Transylvania
By: Andrew Dalby
Pages: 405–425
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“The Taste of Others”: Travellers and Locals Share Food in the Romanian Principalities (19th Century)
By: Angela Jianu
Pages: 426–458
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Voyages, Space, Words: Identity and Representations of Food in 19th-Century Macedonia*
By: Anna Matthaiou
Pages: 459–477
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Jewish Tavern-Keepers and the Myth of the Poisoned Drinks: Legends and Stereotypes in Romanian and Other East-European Cultures (17th–19th Centuries)*
By: Andrei Oişteanu
Pages: 478–511
Notes on Contributors
Margareta Aslan
obtained a PhD in History, Civilization and Culture from Babeș-Bolyai University (Cluj, Romania). She is a researcher and tutor of Turkish language and culture at the Institute of Turkology and Central Asian Studies of the Babeş-Bolyai University. She has research interests in the areas of Turkology (Romanian-Ottoman relations in the Middle Ages, the Renaissance and the modern era), Oriental studies and the history of migrations (the Syrian Muslims from the 19th century until today). Her most recent publication is: Atitudini civice şi imaginea Imperiului Otoman în societatea transilvăneană în perioada Principatului (1541–1688) [Civic attitudes and the image of the Ottoman Empire in Transylvanian society during the Principality (1541–1688)] (2015).
Violeta Barbu
initially studied linguistics (PhD 1997, University of Bucharest, Romania) before obtaining a further PhD in the history of early-modern Romania (University of Bucharest, 2008). She was a senior research fellow at the “Nicolae Iorga” Institute of History (Bucharest). She was co-editor (with Gheorghe Lazăr) and coordinator of the collection of mediaeval documents Documenta Romaniae Historica B. Wallachia, published by the Romanian Academy (1998–2016, 10 volumes). Violeta Barbu’s main research interests were in the areas of cultural history, religious anthropology and social history (family and gender). She was also professor of Church History in the Department of Catholic Theology (University of Bucharest), specializing in the 17th-century Counter-Reformation in the Romanian lands and the Balkans. Her publications include: De bono conjugali (2003); Purgatoriul misionarilor: Contrareforma în ţările române în secolul al XVII-lea [The missionaries’ purgatory: the Counter-Reformation in the Romanian Lands in the 17th century] (2008) (Romanian Academy Award 2010); Ordo amoris (2011); Grădina rozelor: Femei din Moldova, Ţara Românească şi Transilvania (sec. XVII–XIX) (2015) [A garden of roses: women from Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, 17th–19th centuries] (co-authored with Maria Magdalena Székely, Kinga Tüdős and Angela Jianu).
Andrew Dalby
studied classics and linguistics at Cambridge and ancient history at Birkbeck College, where he gained a PhD in 1993. He is a historian and linguist and lives in deepest France, where he grows fruit and makes cider. He usually writes on or around food history. Recent titles are The Treatise of Walter of Bibbesworth (2012), The Breakfast Book (2013) and The Shakespeare Cookbook (with Maureen Dalby, 2013). He contributed to The Oxford Companion to Sugar and Sweets (2015) and to The Oxford Companion to Cheese (2016). He is a trustee of the Oxford Symposium on Food and Cookery and a frequent contributor to Petits Propos Culinaires, most recently with “Wild Parties in Prehistoric Greece” in no. 100 (2014) and “Towards a New Solution of the Butt of Malmsey Problem,” in no. 102 (February 2015).
Stefan Detchev
is associate professor of modern and contemporary Bulgarian history and historiography in the Department of History of the Southwestern University in Blagoevgrad, Bulgaria. He also teaches at the University of Sofia. His research interests and publications are in the field of modern and contemporary Bulgarian history with emphasis on political ideologies and the public sphere, Bulgarian nationalism, the history of masculinity and sexuality, and the history of food in South-East Europe. His publications include: “Between Slavs and Old Bulgars: ‘Ancestors,’ ‘race’ and identity in the late nineteenth century,” in Manufacturing Middle Ages: Entangled history of medievalism in nineteenth-century Europe, eds. Patrick Geary and Gábor Klaniczay (2013); “Mezhdu vishata osmanska kukhnia i Evropa: Slaveikovata kniga ot 1870 g. i pŭtjat kŭm modernoto gotvarstvo” [Between high Ottoman cuisine and Europe: Slaveikov’s book and the road to modern cooking], Littera et Lingua (2014); “‘Shopska salat’”: the road from a European innovation to the national culinary symbol,” in From Kebab to Ćevapčići: Foodways in (post)-Ottoman Europe, eds. Arkadiusz Blaszczyk and Stefan Rohdewald (“Interdisziplinäre Studien zum östlichen Europa,” Harrassowitz/Wiesbaden: forthcoming, 2018).
Suraiya Faroqhi
is professor of history at Istanbul Bilgi University (Department of History). She has published extensively on Ottoman economic, social, religious and cultural history. Her most recent publications include: A Cultural History of the Ottomans: The imperial elite and its artefacts (2016); (as editor) Bread from the Lion’s Mouth: Artisans struggling for a livelihood in Ottoman cities (2015); Travel and Artisans in the Ottoman Empire: Employment and mobility in the early modern era (2014; pbk. ed. 2016); Artisans of Empire: Crafts and craftspeople under the Ottomans (2009); pbk. ed. 2012). She is the editor of The Cambridge History of Turkey (vol. 3, 2006) and co-editor (with Kate Fleet) of vol. 2 in the same series. In 2014 Suraiya Faroqhi received the World Congress of Middle East Studies (WOCMES) Award for outstanding contribution to Middle Eastern studies.
Angela Jianu
studied English and classics at the University of Bucharest in Romania and obtained a PhD in history from the University of York (UK) in 2004. In recent years, she has taught modern European history at the Centre for Lifelong Learning of the University of Warwick (UK) and the Department of Continuing Education at Oxford University. Her publications include: “Women, Fashion and Europeanisation in the Romanian Principalities,” in Women in the Ottoman Balkans, eds. Amila Buturović and Irvin C. Schick (2007) (trans. into Turkish as Osmanlı Döneminde Balkan Kadınları (2009); entries in the Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion, vol. 9, ed. Joanne B. Eicher (2010); A Circle of Friends: Romanian revolutionaries and political exile, 1840–1859 (2011); Grădina rozelor: Femei din Moldova, Ţara Românească şi Transilvania (sec. XVII–XIX) (2015) [A garden of roses: women from Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, 17th–19th centuries] (with Violeta Barbu, Maria Magdalena Székely, and Kinga Tüdős).
Gheorghe Lazăr
is senior research fellow at the “Nicolae Iorga” Institute of History (Bucharest), co-editor (with Violeta Barbu) and coordinator of the collection of mediaeval documents Documenta Romaniae Historica B. Wallachia published by the Romanian Academy (10 volumes, 1998–2016). He obtained a PhD in history at Laval-Québec University in 2005. His doctoral dissertation was published in 2006 as: Naissance et ascension d’une catégorie sociale: Les marchands en Valachie (XVIIe–XVIIIe siècles) (Romanian Academy Award 2008). His published works include edited documents of social, economic, and family history: Mărturie pentru posteritate: Testamentul negustorului Ioan Băluţă din Craiova [Testimony for posterity: the testament of the merchant Ioan Băluţă from Craiova] (2010); Documente privitoare la negustorii din Ţara Românească, vol. 1 (1656–1688), vol. 2 (1689–1714) [Documents on the Wallachian merchants] (2013, 2014); Catastife de negustori din Ţara Românească (secolele XVIII–XIX) [Registers of Wallachian merchants, 18th–19th centuries] (2016).
Castilia Manea-Grgin
obtained her MA degree in mediaeval studies from the Central European University (CEU) in Budapest (Hungary) in 1994 and defended her DPhil thesis in 2004 in Zagreb (Croatia). She is currently senior research fellow at the Ivo Pilar Institute of Social Sciences and associate professor at the Faculty of Humanities and Social Sciences (University of Zagreb). She is the president of the Croatian National Committee (since 2009 also a member of the International Committee) of the AIESEE (Association Internationale d’Études du Sud-Est Européen). The focus of Castilia Manea-Grgin’s research is on the intellectual and religious history of Romania and Croatia in the late mediaeval and early modern period. Her publications include: Povijest karaševskih Hrvata u rumunjskom Banatu (16.–18. Stoljeće) [The history of the Carashevian Croats of the Romanian Banat, 16th–18th centuries] (2012); “Uvod” [Introduction] in Antun Vrančić, Historiografski fragmenti [Historiographical fragments]. eds. Šime Demo and Castilia Manea-Grgin (2014); “Wallachian and Moldavian Boyars in the Travel Writings of two Dubrovnik-born Authors, Ruđer Bošković and Stjepan Rajčević (18th century),” in Revue de l’Association internationale d’études du sud-est européen (2010–4).
Anna Matthaiou
studied English literature at the University of Athens and history at the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales (Paris). She obtained a PhD in history at Université de Paris 1, Sorbonne. She is currently associate professor in the Department of History, Archaeology, and Social Anthropology of the University of Thessaly (Volos). She specializes in modern Greek history and her main areas of interest include social and cultural history (the history of food, the history of family and sexuality, and of modern publishing). Her published work in the area of food history includes: Aspects de l’alimentation en Grèce sous la domination ottomane (1997) and I mageirike: Anonyme metafrase tou 1828 [A cookbook: anonymous translation of 1828] (1992). Other works includes: Itineraries of Melpo Axioti (1999) and The Publishing Adventure of Greek Communists, 1947–1968 (2003).
Andrei Oişteanu
is a cultural anthropologist and historian of religions and mentalities. He is a researcher at the Institute for the History of Religions of the Romanian Academy), lecturer in the Department for Jewish Studies (University of Bucharest), and president of the Romanian Association for the History of Religions. His book The Image of the Jew in Romanian Culture (which has been published in Romanian, Hungarian, French, German, and English), received many prestigious awards in Romania, Belgium and Israel, including the Romanian Academy Award (2011) and the European B’nei B’rith Award (2015). His other works include: Narcotics in Romanian Culture: History, religion and literature (published in Romanian and German); Cosmos vs Chaos: Myth and magic in Romanian traditional culture (1999) (published in Romanian, Italian, and English).
Mária Pakucs-Willcocks
obtained a PhD from the Central European University (Budapest) in 2004 and is senior researcher at the “Nicolae Iorga” Institute of History in Bucharest, with interests in the economic and social history of early modern Transylvania. Her works include a monograph on the trade of Sibiu published in 2007 as Sibiu-Hermannstadt: Oriental trade in sixteenth-century Transylvania, and an edition of the first town protocols of Sibiu: “zu urkundt in das stadbuch lassen einschreiben”: Die ältesten Protokolle von Hermannstadt und der sächsischen Nationsuniversität (1522–1565), published in 2016. Other publications include: “Economic Relations between the Ottoman Empire and Transylvania in the Sixteenth Century: Oriental trade and merchants,” in Osmanischer Orient und Ostmitteleuropa: Perzeptionen und Interaktionen in den Grenzzonen zwischen dem 16. und 18. Jahrhundert, eds. Robert Born and Andreas Puth (2014).
Hedda Reindl-Kiel
studied at the universities of Munich and Istanbul, focusing on Ottoman and South-East European history as well as Mongolian studies. In 1979 she obtained her PhD from Munich University. Before retiring in 2012, she taught at the Institute of Middle Eastern and Asian Studies of the University of Bonn, where she headed the Turkish division. In 2013–2014 she was a senior research fellow at the Research Centre for Anatolian Civilizations, Koç University, Istanbul. Her research interests are in the history of Ottoman culture, particularly material culture and gift exchange. Her many publications in the area of food history include: “Breads for the Followers, Silver Vessels for the Lord: The system of distribution and redistribution in the Ottoman Empire (16th–18th c.)” (2013); “Der Duft der Macht: Osmanen, islamische tradition, muslimische mächte und der Westen im spiegel diplomatischer geschenke” (2005); “No Pigeons for the Princes: Food distribution and rank in the Ottoman Palace, according to an unknown type of a ta‘yinat defteri (late 17th century)” (2006); “The Chickens of Paradise: Official meals in the Ottoman Palace (mid-17th Century),” in The Illuminated Table, the Prosperous House: Food and shelter in Ottoman material culture, eds. Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph Neumann (2003).
Enikő Rüsz-Fogarasi
is professor in the Department of History of Babeş-Bolyai University (Cluj, Romania) and deputy dean of the Faculty of History and Philosophy. Her research interests include: urban history (civic administration, welfare, the history of guilds, food and women) in Transylvania in the 14th–17th centuries, as well as auxiliary disciplines (sigillography, historical ecology, cartography, historical geography). Her published works include: Egy elfeledett intézmény története: A kolozsvári Szentlélek-ispotály kora újkori története [The history of a forgotten institution: the early modern history of the Holy Spirit Hospital in Cluj] (2012); “Transylvanian Hospitals in the Early Modern Age,” in Mitteilungen des Instituts für Österreichische Geschichtsforschung (2007); “Habitat, alimentaţie, meserii” [Habitat, alimentation, handicrafts] in Istoria Transilvaniei [History of Transylvania] vol. 2, eds. Ioan Aurel Pop et al. (2005).
Özge Samancı
obtained a PhD in history from the Ecole des Hautes Etudes en Sciences Sociales (Paris) and is currently associate professor and Head of the Department of Gastronomy and Culinary Arts at Özyeğin University in Istanbul. She has lectured, run workshops and published widely in the area of Ottoman food history. Her recent publications include: La Cuisine d’Istanbul au XIXe siècle (2015); (with Sharon Croxford) Flavours of Istanbul: A selection from original 19th-century Ottoman recipes (2007); “Les Techniques culinaires dans la cuisine d’Istanbul au XIXe siècle,” in Du feu originel aux nouvelles cuissons, ed. Jean-Pierre Williot (2015); “Culinary Consumption Patterns of the Ottoman Elite during the First Half of the 19th century,” in The Illuminated Table, the Prosperous House: Food and shelter in Ottoman material culture, eds. Suraiya Faroqhi and Christoph Neumann (2003); “Ten Years in Ottoman-Turkish Food Historiography”, Food & History (2013), and “Les sens symboliques du pain dans la culture ottomane,” Food & History (2008). She is a member of the Advisory Board of the European Institute of History of Food & Culture (IECHA) (Tours, France).
Olivia Senciuc
received a PhD in history from the “Alexandru Ioan Cuza” University (Iaşi, Romania, 2013) with a dissertation entitled Alimentaţie şi societate în Moldova şi Ţara Românească (secolele XVI–XVIII) [Food and society in Moldavia and Wallachia, 16th–18th centuries]. Her published works on food history include: “Istoriografia românească a alimentaţiei: Geneză, surse documentare, direcţii şi metode de cercetare,” [Foodways in Romanian historiography: documentary sources, research methods], Cercetări istorice 30–31 (2011–2012); “Consumul de alcool şi beţia în Moldova şi Ţara Românească, secolul al XVI-lea—începutul secolului al XIX-lea: Semnalări documentare” [The consumption of alcohol and drunkenness in Moldavia and Wallachia, 16th-early 19th century: documentary evidence], Cercetări istorice 34 (2015). She currently works as an independent scholar.
Maria Magdalena Székely
is professor in the History Department of the “Alexandru Ioan Cuza” University (Iaşi. Romania). Her published works include: Sfetnicii lui Petru Rareş: Studiu prosopografic [Petru Rareş’s advisors: a prosopographic study] (2002); Princeps omni laude maior: o istorie a lui Ştefan cel Mare (2005) (co-authored with Ştefan S. Gorovei); Maria Asanina Paleologhina: o prinţesă bizantină pe tronul Moldovei (2006) [Maria Asanina Palaiologina: A Byzantine princess on the Moldavian throne] (co-authored with Ştefan S. Gorovei); Grădina rozelor: Femei din Moldova, Ţara Românească şi Transilvania (sec. XVII–XIX) [A garden of roses: women from Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, 17th–19th centuries] (2015) (co-authored with Violeta Barbu, Kinga S. Tüdős and Angela Jianu); (as editor) Lumea animalelor: Realităţi, reprezentări, simboluri [The animal world: facts, representations, symbolism] (2012). In the area of food history, she has published: “La curte, la Petru vodă” [At the court of Prince Petru], in Revista istorică (1997); “Bucate şi leacuri de altădată” [Food and remedies from the past], in Revista de istorie socială (2003–2004).
Kinga S. Tüdős
studied art history and psychology at the Eötvös Loránd University (Budapest), where she obtained a PhD in history. She is interested in art history, material culture and gender history of the Hungarian population in Transylvania. Before she retired in 2014, she was senior researcher at the “Nicolae Iorga” Institute of History in Bucharest, focusing on the edition of sources for the social history of the Transylvanian nobility in the 17th–18th centuries (military records and testaments). Her publications include: A régi gernyeszegi várkastély [The old castle from Gorneşti] (2009); Grădina rozelor: Femei din Moldova, Ţara Românească şi Transilvania (sec. XVII–XIX) [A garden of roses: women from Moldavia, Wallachia and Transylvania, 17th–19th centuries] (2015) (co-authored with Violeta Barbu, Maria Magdalena Székely and Angela Jianu) and Erdélyi nemesek és föemberek végrendeletei Erdélyi testamentumok [Testaments of Transylvanian nobility and gentry] (vols. 1–4) (2006–2011).
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